WOW - about sums it up!  We just spent two weeks in Northern Patagonia (the Arctic of South America) with a rental truck.  It is a weird time of year to do it since it is fall now and too cold for most tourists (but not us Canadianses) but it was great because we had the whole place to ourselves!  

Ideally maybe it would have been nicer to camp with either warmer weather, or proper cold weather camping gear.  We did camp a few nights but were really freezing cold (there was ice involved) so whenever possible we stayed in hostels (which were so expensive, like US$30/night compared to the rest of SA, avg US$10).  The coldniss and rainyniss also made hiking slightly less enjoyable, though for the most part we had pretty good weather, considering.

We started our two week truck rental in Puerto Montt (see travel map, southern Chile) and decided to also return it there since it would cost an extra US$500 to drop it off in another town, jeeeesh.  We got the extra insurance to be able to cross the border into Argentina (about $100 extra) and then headed out!  Our itinerary was a bit screwed up since we didn't have much success researching the best routes to take etc.  So if you are reading this as a travel guide for yourself I have a number of recommendations at the bottom of this so you don't waste time like we did!

We spent the last week or so in and around Quito, the highest city in Ecuador (at 2800 metres above sea level).  With a population of about two million it’s a reasonably large city, though the surrounding mountains squeeze it into such a long and narrow shape that it can take hours to travel from one end to another.  Despite our general dislike of large cities, we actually enjoyed a couple afternoons wandering around and taking in the sights: epic churches, interesting museums, huge parks, artisanal markets, and interesting architecture - oh, and there’s also a pub with craft beer which is a much needed change from the usual boring Ecuadorian beer.

One of the main reasons we decided to visit Quito is because a friend of mine, Michael-Anthony (usually just “M.A.”) happened to be here for an IAESTE (International Association for the Exchange of Students for Technical Experience... phew!) conference.  M.A. and I have shared some other interesting coincidences in the past – on my first day of work during my IAESTE internship in Vienna in 2007, I walked into the office only to find M.A. (who was also taking Mechanical Engineering at UofT) sitting at the desk beside mine.  For whatever reason, we had to travel halfway around the world to become friends, and had soon drank half the beer in Austria and formed an impromptu band with a couple other interns... some great memories.  It was nice to spend some time catching up and taking in some of the sights.  He also snuck us onto a bus tour and scored us a free lunch, helping us pose as conference attendees.  =)

The center of Quito is located about 25 km south of the actual equator, and one of the more interesting stops on the bus tour was at “la mitad del mundo” – a site marking the location (or close enough) of the actual equator.  Our tour guide eagerly demonstrated some of the phenomena associated with being on the equator, most of which M.A. and I, being rational engineers, tried to debunk.  The one that really irked us was the demonstration of water draining in a sink, with the direction changing due to the Coriolis Effect.  The demonstration showed that the same sink drained differently depending on where it was placed:  directly on the equator (draining straight down), ten feet north of the equator (draining counter-clockwise), and ten feet south of the equator (draining clockwise).  At first we were a bit baffled, but upon looking closer we noticed that the guy leading the show was totally cheating!!  Before draining the sink on the equator, the water was left for a few minutes to make sure it was completely still, but right before the demos off of the equator the water was poured from a bucket in such a way as to already get the water moving in the right direction.  Poppycock, I say!  Once the demo ended, we stepped in and were able to, by pouring from the bucket in the right way, get the water to drain the opposite way it was supposed to.  BAH.  I’m not disputing the Coriolis Effect, I’m just saying there’s no way it can make a difference over such a small scale… anyways, maybe we were taking things too seriously.

The other reason we came to Quito is its proximity to Cotopaxi National Park, about fifty kilometres south of Quito and the home of Cotopaxi, Rumiñahui, and Sincholagua volcanoes, with Cotopaxi being among the highest active volcanoes in the world.  If you’ve been keeping up with our adventures so far, you’d know that we were way overdue for a volcano hike, though the high elevation made this one a much different experience from La Concepción and Telica (Nicaragua) and Arenal (Costa Rica).

The last couple weeks with my parents have been a blast, trying to make the most of their time in Costa Rica.  While we had a great time showing them around and going on a variety of day adventures, their visit also came with some new challenges for Chelsea and I – namely finding the best cheap red wine for my mom and an appropriate substitute for my dad’s usual “blue drinks” (VEX electric lemonade vodka coolers).  Their visit also meant a nice change for us – a couple weeks of eating better food, staying in fancy-schmancy rental properties (with hot showers, hooray!), and the experience of Costa Rican driving with our rental car.

The first week we stayed at a condo in Playas Del Coco, about an hours’ drive south of Tamarindo.  The guy who drove us into town introduced the place as “a drinking town with a fishing problem” and we quickly saw why.  The main part of town was a stretch of road packed with restaurants and bars, each with large signs boasting their “happy hour” deals.  One bar on the far end of the beach had a “wall of fame”, showcasing their current record-holders for the most beers drank in a single day – one of whom we were told was a ninety pound Canadian chica who slammed back 30 or more beers and still managed to head out to go dancing afterward.  Way to represent!  The main beach at Coco was packed with fishermen and their rigs, as well as local kids playing football (soccer) and random dogs running amuck.  

We spent a few days relaxing at Playa del Coco and a couple of the neighboring beaches, at each new location sampling their Pina Colada in Chelsea’s extensive search for the very best.  My dad and I also managed to pack in a morning of ocean fishing, which was a nice treat.  Our boat was followed by a couple pods of spotted dolphins, and we managed to catch (although we did very little of the actual fishing part) a beautiful mahi-mahi, which took us a few meals to eat our share of.  We also spent an afternoon relaxing and surfing at Playa Grande (thanks Christie & Sebsters for the recommendation!) which was by far the highlight of the week for us.  The waves were perfect for learning and we all (except for the mimsy) had some success catching some gnarly surf (but limited success in picking up on the surfer lingo).  

Although Playas del Coco was not exactly the nicest beach or town we’ve seen so far, it was great to spend the week relaxing, eating, drinking, playing cards and catching up with the parents.

The next week we spent at an awesome rental house in Neuvo Arenal, which was recommended to us by April’s parents (thanks Janice & Gord!).  The house was gorgeous, complete with two king-size beds, an extra bedroom, four washrooms, a swimming pool, beautiful garden & terrace, and fully-stocked kitchen (with a blender for mastering our Pina Colada skills).  We did a lot of driving around to check out the sights, which were incredible.  We spent an afternoon hiking around Arenal Volcano, during which my mom impressed us all with her rock-hopping skills.  We awoke every morning to howling monkeys (which to us sound more like pissed-off dinosaurs than monkeys), though we didn’t see any until our drive back to the airport on the final day.

The two weeks flew right by, and we were sad to see my parents off.  We also can’t believe it’s already December – it will be tough for us to be away from our families over Christmas.

Some of the highlights of the last couple weeks:

-       exploring random dirt roads in our rental golf cart

-       feeding the mocking-jays at Playa Ocotal

-       Scuba diving at Playas del Coco and experiencing the intense chill of the thermoclines

-       catching mad curls at Playa Grande in Tamarindo

-       fishing for mahi-mahi at Playas del Coco

-       searching for the best pina colada, and finally achieving perfection for ourselves

-       hiking through the jungle around Arenal Volcano

-       relaxing in the hot springs river near La Fortuna

-       driving along a random gravel road and spotting spider monkeys

-       playing lots of card games and learning a new game together (All Fours)

-       horseback riding around the hills near Nuevo Arenal



Thanks again, Mimsy & Pimsy, for coming to see us!  Hope to see you in Africa next year!  =)

Pura Vida,
Mandrew & Chelsea

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We spent five nights in Leon (including one night camping on an active volcano!) and loved every minute of it!  After spending lots of time in the rainforest and on a beach, we thought it was time to see a little culture.  Leon is pretty small but has a great market and a ton of history.  It isn’t as touristy as other cities either, which made it attractive for us.  We stayed at Sonati, an interesting hostel run by a volunteer organization that gives environmental tours to backpackers and educates the local children in Leon.  

On our first day we split up and explored the city by ourselves.  I was so stinkin' hot I decided to buy a dress that was much much cooler than my yoga pants and t-shirt.  Andrew explored the markets and churches.  It was a nice relaxing day.

The next day we decided to take a tour with the Sonati group.  Johnny, a German dude who just so happened to turn 20 that day, was our tour guide on a daylong kayak trip through the mangrove forest!  Two other volunteers from the hostel joined in the fun for the day, Simon, another Sonati guide, and Emma the awesome receptionist, which made the trip extra fun.  

We left around 7:00am on foot from the hostel and walked a block or so before catching a local... truck-thing…  It was supposed to be a bus but apparently when they are short on busses they use pick-up trucks with canopies on the back and jam a TON of people in.  So we jumped on while it was basically still moving and I nearly fell out when they gunned it, thinking we were all secure (though they do this ALL THE TIME).  From there we switched to a real bus that was a little less crowded (but not by much) and had a bunch of people wandering through the aisle selling food and drinks.  You can buy just about anything from your seat on any bus in Nicaragua, it seems.  At bus stops sometimes people will board the bus from the front with a basket of baked goods or other treats and walk to the back trying to sell, advertising their goods quickly and loudly kind of like an auctioneer.  Then when they get to the back they hang out until the next stop and get off.  It is very interesting!  We’ve seen them sell everything from baked things, ice-cream, corn-on-the-cob, little plastic bags of juice, razors, nail clippers, hammocks, DVD’s, SIM cards, and even pharmaceuticals.

Anyways, I digress, so we get to the kayak place around nine, get in our kayaks and off we go!  It was so gorgeous!  But after an hour or so we started thinking it might be fun to check out some of the little channels that branch off of the main river, something Johnny had never done before, and it turned out to be super awesome!  We dragged ourselves through the narrow mangrove channels by pulling on the roots ahead of ourselves and came out into some neat ponds with birds, bugs, crabs and even a raccoon in one spot.  At lunchtime we made it back to the main channel and stopped off at a beach spot to chillax, eat a bunch, and swim in the ocean.  It was an awesome day!  And to top it off, when we got back to the hostel, everyone that was staying there, and more (probably 20 people or more!) decided to throw Johnny a surprise birthday party!  Emma and I made up a delicious chickpea salad thing, and Andrew did a couple of beer runs to contribute (20 cordobas, about $0.80 for a LITRE of beer!).  The dinner was great, and the company was even greater!  After dinner and a bunch of drinks I decided to call it a night but Andrew stayed out and played Flinky-Ball, a German drinking game that sounds a lot like dodgeball.

The next morning we got up and packed our bags for a two-day trek up Telica, an active volcano in the area.  People were a bit hung over so we got a later start than we had planned, but we picked up a few more hikers, which was great!  We had Johnny and Simon again, our friend Devon who we had hiked La Conception with on Isla de Ometepe a few weeks earlier, and a girl named Anna who arrived at the hostel the night before and after some consideration we had convinced to come along.  

It was a 15min walk to the bus station, then an hour-long bus ride to the starting trail.  The hike was incredible!  We started out at some boiling mud pots that smelled like sulfur then headed up a dried riverbed/ cattle trail and up over some farmland.  It wasn’t until after lunch that we started the climb.  I made a bad decision to eat two peanut butter sandwiches even though I don’t like peanut butter, because I was so hungry by the time we stopped for lunch.  Unfortunately the steep hill with a nasty peanut butter filled stomach was not so pleasant.  I managed to keep it all down but couldn’t stand the sight of peanut butter for the rest of the trip, and that’s almost the only thing we brought… (I traded for other things).  Once we made it to the cone, the view was surreal!  A massive smoking cone sprouting out of the hillside and a frozen lava river spilled over the top.  We quickly set up our tents as we had less than an hour before sundown, and then headed up to check out the cone!  It was loud, like a jet engine but muted.  The cone was about 1km across and maybe that deep.  We stood and crouched on the edge, literally where the ground cuts deep into the engine below.  Yes we did acknowledge how dangerous it was there, but how could you resist!  Deep in the center of the pit was a fiery glowing red hole with smoke spewing out.  After staring at the lava hole for some time, mesmerized, we got up and walked to the other side of the cone to watch the sunset before heading back for dinner (a delicious homemade Dutch veggie mush dish made by Simon and Johnny) and topped it off with some roasted marshmallows at the campfire.  

The next morning was equally awesome, we woke up early to see the sun rise (4:30) then hiked back up to the cone for another look before cruising around to a bat cave that Simon found one time when he was guiding another group up there.  It was neat-o!  And then we headed back down the volcano.  The hike back was fun and quick, but everyone’s legs were happy for the break by the time we got on the bus to go home.

So while our cultural visit to Leon itself was a little short, we got to see some super neat things, meet some new friends, as well as an “old” friend, Devon.

After Leon we hoped back on the Chicken Bus and headed to Jinotega to stay on a finca/ nature retreat called La Biosfera, about two and a half hours north of Leon.  We found La Biosfera on helpx.org while looking for another place to do some volunteering, and chose it partly because there is a bat cave there, and partly because it sounds very unique!  

Hope everyone is well at home!  I would like to congratulate my Dad and Carolyn on a successful hunting and fishing year!  They finally got two moose and 27 Coho salmon!  Of course it isn't all for them as there were others in the group to split with, but the freezer is full this winter which is awesome!  We are also getting excited to spend two weeks with Donna and Jim (Mandrew's parents) who will be heading to Costa Rica on Nov 11th!  Can't wait to see you!!

Love,
Chelsea

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Isla de Ometepe is very interesting so far!  We are staying at a place called Yogi's Hostel which was recommended on wikitravel.org.  When we got off the boat on the island, we were bombarded (as usual) by a bunch of people trying to get us to stay at their hostel or take their cab or buy their snacks, etc.  And one hippie guy in particular tried to convince us to stay at his hostel, making it sound pretty awesome and much cheaper than the rest.  The name of it was Hospedaje Central which rang a bell for us.

During our research into where to stay (really just reading the wikitravel.org page for 5 minutes) we read about the Hospedage Central thinking it was a joke.  Word for word the blurb on wikitravel.org was this:

"Hospedaje Central, From Procredit Bank, 1 block south, ☎ 2569-4262. Very colorful and friendly atmosphere with free parking lot, internet service, dvd movies, laundry, volunteering opportunities, a restaurant and a bar. Unfortunately the owner is wanted by INTERPOL for Fraud, Kidnapping, etc. Dormitory is basic with bunk beds, its own toilet and shower, lockers and a safe available at reception. Rooms are clean, large, with new beds, fan or AC and private bathroom. However, some travellers report that, despite Lonely Planet's endorsement, theft is a problem, especially in the dormitory rooms where random locals wander in and out through three doors. And the bar/restaurant shares a filthy bathroom with guests and plays loud music until late at night. $2.50 hammock-$3.50 dorm-$5.50 to 9.50 for room."

I admit I almost fell for the hippie's recommendation but Andrew insisted on sticking to our guns and heading to Yogi's Hostel.  At Yogi's we met some other travellers and they brought up the topic of the criminals down the street.  None of us really thought too much of it, thinking maybe it was just a rumour, or blown out of proportion.  We actually ended up having dinner there the night before last because the food sounded so good.  And it was!  We were served by a SUPER creepy man, an equally creepy woman lit our candle when it got dark, and a bunch of other creepy people hung around at nearby tables having very deep conversations.  The place was actually nicely decorated, very colourful and kind of reggae-ish.  It did seem like a nice place to stay, if it weren't for the creepy people.  

When we got back to Yogi's we were chatting with Robinson, the owner, who sent us a link to a woman's blog.  Apparently this woman stayed at Hospedaje Central a while back and started hearing rumours, so she began to look into it.  She found out a ton of crazy things about these people and wrote this blog post about it, hoping to get them kicked off the island and hopefully Nicaragua altogether.  They are hiding here because the Nicaraguan police  are very understaffed and are unlikely to do anything about them.  

It is a very interesting read if you have a few minutes.  These people (the ones that served us and the old guy sat beside us when we had dinner) basically are involved in a horrible cult, starving people to death and causing children to die of malnutrition and lack of medical care when they got sick.  They also created false names and companies in order to get investor money so they could live lavishly.  Very evil people.  And now they are here in Nicaragua, trying to get travellers like us to stay at their nature retreat on the other side of this island, where you can "live like the natives", which is basically how they got people to enter their previous cults.  Creeeeeeepy!!!  Can't believe we met them and they are literally right down the street, four houses down.  

THANK YOU Wikitravel.org for giving us the heads up on this!  We will continue to read you  :)

On another note, we have been doing well.  Yesterday was our first full day on the island and we made good use of it, hiking Volcan Concepcion with Devon, a fellow backpacker from Yogi's.  We hired a guide (Walter) who accompanied us and lead us to the top of the volcano.  It was a pretty insane hike!  Very very steep.  It took us from 7:30 to 11:00 to reach the top, where the rocks we stood on were warm, and sulphur gasses were strong.  We only stayed up there for a couple of minutes because the gasses could be dangerous, but it was so neat!  It was very cloudy, of course, so we couldn't see too well, but that in itself was really  cool.  The hike back down was maybe even more difficult as we were literally sliding and surfing down loose basalt gravel and trying to avoid tumbling down the steep incline.  It was definitely the most challenging hike we have done so far, in that it was the most dangerous!  And totally worth it  :) 

Today we will probably relax a bit, as our legs and knees in particular need some TLC.  

We may even rent a motorbike and check out the rest of the island!  Ne neither of us has ever driven a motorbike, but you gotta start somewhere, right?  

Pura Vida everyone!
-Chelsea  :)

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We spent just one short week and crammed as much stuff as we possibly could.  We explored an underground lava tube, climbed a glacier, hiked a volcano, kayaked in the ocean, went fishing, snorkeled over the continental rift (Europe and North America) and rafted an awesome river!  
What a magical place!  

Everyone should go