Before making our way back to Canada we had a couple days to soak in the sun and rich history of Cartagena, both of which are nearly impossible to hide from. Our days here were some of the hottest in our entire trip, with the sun constantly beating down on us as we explored the city. Shade is definitely a premium here, with locals and tourists alike hopping from one sheltered sanctuary to the next.
Like in many of the cities we've visited, we quickly grew tired of the pushy street vendors hocking their wares (especially wide-brimmed hats for hiding from the sun), but were pleasantly surprised to find a clean, colourful and overall attractive city. Although we stayed in a hostel in the touristy area around Calle Media Luna (half-moon street), we spent most of our time exploring inside the old city walls.
Like in many of the cities we've visited, we quickly grew tired of the pushy street vendors hocking their wares (especially wide-brimmed hats for hiding from the sun), but were pleasantly surprised to find a clean, colourful and overall attractive city. Although we stayed in a hostel in the touristy area around Calle Media Luna (half-moon street), we spent most of our time exploring inside the old city walls.
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One of the first things that we noticed about Cartagena was its history: completely surrounded by walls, the old city's narrow streets and scattered plazas are packed with colonial buildings and statues. Most of the attractions are within these walls, though some incredible views can be found if you're willing to brave the direct sunlight (and the hat vendors) and walk around atop the cannon-lined walls.
cool juxtaposition of Cartagena old & new
view from the fort Since it's so in-your-face, it's worth talking about some of Cartagena's history. Discovered by the Spanish in 1533, Cartagena quickly grew, in part due to the fact that gold could be found in many of the tombs once belonging to the indigenous groups who had inhabited the area as early as 4000 BC. Even long after all the tombs were plundered, the city remained a target to pirates and Corsairs (basically English and French pirates who looted in the King's name) due to its golden fame. In 1586 Sir Francis Drake arrived and easily took the city for England, later ransoming it back to its governor. Spain took the lesson to heart and began to invest millions yearly in the city's protection - for the next two hundred years contruction continued on city walls and forts. During this time the city was a major trading port, specializing in precious metals and slaves - a one stop shop for growing empires. Cartagena declared independence from Spain in 1811, only to be re-taken by the Spanish in 1815 after a siege lasting five months (thanks to the new fortifications). Finally, Cartagena was freed of Spanish rule in 1821 when Spain surrendered to the troops led by Simón Bolívar.
an old naval map of Cartagena & surroundings (Castillo San Filipe is bottom-right)
one of the fort's many guard towers The highlight of our visit for me was a tour of the largest of the city's forts, Castillo San Felipe de Barajas. An easy walk from our hostel, the fort literally loomed over the city, with its batteries of cannons offering protection of the whole bay surrounding Cartagena (but none ever built facing the city just in case an enemy ever got control of the fort). Originally triangular in shape, the fort was expanded a couple different times and now includes a complex series of walls, bunkers and an underground maze of tunnels. If it weren't for the guide showing us around, I could have easily found myself lost and wandering around for days (though this really doesn't mean much coming from me).
playing a cocky melody Another interesting site was the market area of Las Bovedas (the vaults), in which a series of colourful shops sell their wares from large vaults with heavy grate doors. Originally designed to store munitions and provisions for the fortification of the city, the vaults were later used to house prisoners during civil wars in the 19th century. Quite an interesting back-story to shops that can boast such meaningful wares as this penis-shaped flute.
The Modern Art Gallery was also worth a visit, if only for the excuse to hide from the sun for an hour. Just a couple bucks to enter, the best part was that we had the place completely to ourselves, letting us experience the art in our own, special way.
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Our final act before boarding our flight home was to catch a taxi over to the big, crazy market (Mercado Bazurto) to stock up on cacao beans for the trip home. Pretty much the typical insane market, it was busy, stinky, and packed with potentially unsavoury characters. Because the taxi driver advised us that the market was "peligrissimo" (very dangerous) we kept our heads down and stuck to business. Although our search for cacao failed miserably (I guess it's not really grown near the coast) we did come back with some fresh, juicy pineapple which we quickly devoured.
It's hard to believe, but after eleven months of traveling our adventures in Central and South America are now at an end! Sure, it'll be nice to get back to Canada, catch up with family and friends, overdose on Timmyho's extra-large double-doubles (or have they up-sized them again already?), and move on to the next stage of our adventurous lives, but I'm sure it won't be long before we're both searching for excuses (and money) to head back down. Whitehorse here we come (via Panama, Los Angeles, and Vancouver...). Catch you all on the flip-side!
~ Mandrew
It's hard to believe, but after eleven months of traveling our adventures in Central and South America are now at an end! Sure, it'll be nice to get back to Canada, catch up with family and friends, overdose on Timmyho's extra-large double-doubles (or have they up-sized them again already?), and move on to the next stage of our adventurous lives, but I'm sure it won't be long before we're both searching for excuses (and money) to head back down. Whitehorse here we come (via Panama, Los Angeles, and Vancouver...). Catch you all on the flip-side!
~ Mandrew
Photos from Cartagena, Colombia
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